51
General Discussion / Re: Tyres 2025
« Last post by Hans on March 21, 2025, 02:39:00 PM »And they arrived in 3 days.
RIDE THEM OLD - RIDE THEM BOLD, JUST RIDE
News:
Monthly club meetings are back at the Royal Canadian Legion 6:30pm First Tuesday of the month.
Recent Posts
52
General Discussion / Tyres 2025
« Last post by Hans on March 17, 2025, 10:25:26 AM »Looking to get some new tyres for the Ducati. Revco, GPBikes, and Fortnine all about the same price, GPBikes about $20 more. They all have free shipping.
Pete's Superbike, you have to pay for shipping, about $37. With that, the same tires came out $150 LESS than the above 3 vendors.
Worth taking a look.
Pete's Superbike, you have to pay for shipping, about $37. With that, the same tires came out $150 LESS than the above 3 vendors.
Worth taking a look.
53
Engine / Re: The Red Menace Chronicles
« Last post by stevecrout on March 07, 2025, 07:45:32 PM »Despite the amount of grief and anger they generate its hard to toss them to the curb isn't it? A little like a relationship (I've only heard about).
I wonder if there is a compounding of issues here that is causing said mechanic to pull out precious hair? Is it possible there is a warping in the head or the mating to the cylinder that would cause the valve clearances to go so far out? This, coupled with an iffy spark might be enough to cause the running issues? Once everything is nailed down is it possible to do a compression test cold then hot?
Just my 2 cents.
I wonder if there is a compounding of issues here that is causing said mechanic to pull out precious hair? Is it possible there is a warping in the head or the mating to the cylinder that would cause the valve clearances to go so far out? This, coupled with an iffy spark might be enough to cause the running issues? Once everything is nailed down is it possible to do a compression test cold then hot?
Just my 2 cents.
54
Engine / Re: The Red Menace Chronicles
« Last post by Hans on March 06, 2025, 09:20:50 PM »So, being the masochist that I am, I'm back at it. Since the last post 4 years ago, I've intermittently tried a few things. A new kill switch, a new crank sensor, a new coil, and a cleanup of the worst of the wiring gave no joy. The carbs have been in and out multiple times, and I'm not sure where some of the bodywork is. That as it may, I've tried 2 new thing. One is a new genuine Chinese CDI. The other is to reset the valves. I was wondering if maybe they had run tight and were lifting up when it got warm. So, I had one intake valve super loose, one good. One exhaust valve was good, and the other was tight. Checked the spark by spinning the engine over with a drill and it was really healthy. Put some fresher fuel in the tank and got it to fire up on the 10th or so kick. Think the carburetion is way off as it started without the choke. Ran it up and down the street, shut it down, and firing it up on the first kick. Figured that was enough pushing of my luck for the evening and packed everything up.
55
Complete Rebuilds / Re: 1975 T500 Engine out & strip
« Last post by Olafskii on March 01, 2025, 09:46:59 AM »The long term plan is to keep the '75 (and the '72) and to tastefully customize them. In my view these earlier T500's are better looking than the '76 and '77 GT500's. Tasteful customization means no muffler tape and no loud 'crackle' pipes. So the '75 and the '72 will get the best components that I have.
The still-good-but-2nd-choice components will go on the '77 which will eventually be sold to thin the herd. Nova Racing gears are the best of the best so will stay in the bikes that I keep.
The still-good-but-2nd-choice components will go on the '77 which will eventually be sold to thin the herd. Nova Racing gears are the best of the best so will stay in the bikes that I keep.
56
Complete Rebuilds / Re: 1975 T500 Engine out & strip
« Last post by Dennis on February 13, 2025, 10:11:14 AM »Why not put the new gears in the '77 and keep this one intact/original?
Dennis
Dennis
57
Complete Rebuilds / Re: 1975 T500 Engine out & strip
« Last post by Olafskii on February 08, 2025, 07:03:44 PM »Oh dear! Some putz has been here before! This thrust washer goes on the other side of the right hand gear cluster bearing. This error allows the first gear driven gear to ride right up against the gearbox casting. It also prevents full engagement of the first gear shift dogs. Fortunately there is no evidence of damage. Elsewhere on the gear cluster this sort of error can sometimes cause two gears to engage at the same time. But no damage is anywhere to be seen and all other thrust washers and spacers are where they should be. Whew!
The gear cluster bearings are good. The 4th & 5th gears (a weak point for these engines) have no spalling or flaking on the gear teeth and only some minor distress. These gears will be removed and installed in the ’77 GT500 gearbox where the old 4th & 5th gears are truly knackered.
New 4th & 5th gears from Nova Racing will be installed in this gearbox.
The gear cluster bearings are good. The 4th & 5th gears (a weak point for these engines) have no spalling or flaking on the gear teeth and only some minor distress. These gears will be removed and installed in the ’77 GT500 gearbox where the old 4th & 5th gears are truly knackered.
New 4th & 5th gears from Nova Racing will be installed in this gearbox.
58
Complete Rebuilds / Re: 1975 T500 Engine out & strip
« Last post by Olafskii on February 04, 2025, 09:25:35 PM »Pulled the jugs off. I use a puller plate when they’re tight or seized in place. Only a dummkopf would use a prybar against those big lovely cooling fins. In some places the crosshatching in the bores is still visible and there is no noticeable wear mark at the top. The conrod bearings feel smooth and rod lateral endplay feels minimal.
The bores and pistons are all within spec so will be cleaned and re-used. The piston ring endgaps are right of the ragged edge so rings will be replaced. The crank was crated and is on it’s way down to Mongoose engine rebuilding in Port Coquitlam.
The bores and pistons are all within spec so will be cleaned and re-used. The piston ring endgaps are right of the ragged edge so rings will be replaced. The crank was crated and is on it’s way down to Mongoose engine rebuilding in Port Coquitlam.
59
Complete Rebuilds / Re: 1975 T500 Engine out & strip
« Last post by Dennis on February 04, 2025, 10:16:41 AM »Nice report.
Peace & Grease, Dennis
Peace & Grease, Dennis
60
Complete Rebuilds / Re: 1975 T500 Engine out & strip
« Last post by Olafskii on February 01, 2025, 08:27:45 PM »Engine on the bench. 6mm side cover screws were snug--every one of them needed the impact driver to loosen it.
Clutch basket looks good. But, someone has been in here before! Those nicks on the primary drive nut are not mine (I use the proper tools to flatten the lock washer) and I would not re-use an old lockwasher on the primary drive pinion. The gear teeth seem to be good; no spalling or pitting.
I took off the clutch and the right side stuff: points cover, points plate & stator and the alternator rotor. The rotor came off without any problems.
On balance the right side is in decent shape. The rotor still has lots of magnetism and there is no evidence of any water ingress or damage. The stator looks good although I haven't done any electrical checks yet. The 2-stroke oil sitting at the bottom of the casing on both sides suggests that the outer crank seals need to be replaced. For an engine of this vintage I'll send out the crank to get the center seals replaced too. The points cam was rusted and deeply pitted. This might have happened due to wet felt 'wipers' when the bike was parked. Since I plan to run points and condenser ignition, the points cam will be needed. I could try to polish out the pits but a lot of material would need to be removed. So, I've ordered an aftermarket replacement points cam from HVCCycle in Lincoln, Nebraska.
Clutch basket looks good. But, someone has been in here before! Those nicks on the primary drive nut are not mine (I use the proper tools to flatten the lock washer) and I would not re-use an old lockwasher on the primary drive pinion. The gear teeth seem to be good; no spalling or pitting.
I took off the clutch and the right side stuff: points cover, points plate & stator and the alternator rotor. The rotor came off without any problems.
On balance the right side is in decent shape. The rotor still has lots of magnetism and there is no evidence of any water ingress or damage. The stator looks good although I haven't done any electrical checks yet. The 2-stroke oil sitting at the bottom of the casing on both sides suggests that the outer crank seals need to be replaced. For an engine of this vintage I'll send out the crank to get the center seals replaced too. The points cam was rusted and deeply pitted. This might have happened due to wet felt 'wipers' when the bike was parked. Since I plan to run points and condenser ignition, the points cam will be needed. I could try to polish out the pits but a lot of material would need to be removed. So, I've ordered an aftermarket replacement points cam from HVCCycle in Lincoln, Nebraska.