Why I love old bikes (or hate modern ones)

[Dennis]

I assembled my 2004 883 Sportster on the weekend.  The Paughco frame fitment leaves a bit to be desired, but other than having to grind the motor mounts a little, it went together pretty easy. 

I then hauled out the wiring harness and got really depressed.  I knew the wiring would be a challenge, but this thing is f'ing rediculous.  I have wired all of my bikes from scratch.  It is a process I generally enjoy.  Because the 883 will have to be inspected when completed (it will be registered as a Ubilt because of the after market frame) I actually need things like a speedometer (electrical) and turn signals.  My orginal plan was to try to use the stock wiring harness and make it fit.... not going to happen.

Plan B: research the hell out of the internet and see what I can eliminate.  The main problem is that there are so many electrical components which prevent the bike from running.  These are there for "safety" such as the gadget which shuts off the ignition if the bike leans too far over, must be in nuetral to start, cannot run in gear with the kickstand down, etc.   There is a connection to hook the bike up to a computer diagnostic machine.  There is an anti-theft device which prevents the engine from running if someone attempts to hot wire it.

My Ironhead Sportster ran with 6 wires.

Peace & Grease, Dennis

[Rusty Bucket]

Hmm, yeah that sounds not good.  Is the core of the problem one of distance, or rather one of volume?  I am imagining most of these devices will be near the engine, like the sidestand interlock, right?  Where is the chopper frame so unlike the stocker?  Where does the stock rubbermount Sportster keep the greater part of it's wiring?  Is it under the seat, like an older solid-mount Evo?  Since the bike has to be inspected with a fully functional wiring system, couldn't everything be strung together - wires extended by splicing where neccessary and coiled up and taped over where they are long - and then the whole thing excised after proving it all works?  Or is the fitting of all the safety interlocks, each needing a bracket or a widget - none of which are accounted for on the aftermarket frame - the real sticking point?

[fast1]

 The harness on that one is probably twice as thick as yours Russ. In typical Harley fashion the connectors are bulky and mounts for all these widgets are added as an afterthought--much like footpegs and hand controls! Very difficult to hide. There was a fella years back wanted to have a kickstart evo. The cases are the same as the shovel so he just installed a points style ignition. Should be possible on the sporty I think..just have to drill out a couple rivets to find out. You should see the mess of shit hidden under the skin of a modern day Japanese cruiser...looks like nasa stuff.

[Dennis]

Fast 1 is right about the size.  The harness is just plain huge and actually has a half bend of a kazillion wires going under the tank.  The gas tank tunnel is bigger on this model to make room.  Since my first post, I have been building confidence from staring at wiring diagrams, aftermarket ignition systems and various online rants,  that this ugly octopus of wires can be reduced to a manageable volume. 

The real challenge will be the ignition module and parring down its attendant wiring to the essentials.  I was speaking with Len at the Harley shop about how in the "old days" an idiot switch could be either left open or wired closed.  Nowadays these circuits operate on millivolts, and eliminating them from the computer brain requires more than a simple "open" or "closed" approach. However, as Fast 1 points out, Harley just added shit (read "evolved") rather than totally re-engineered from a fresh sheet of paper (or computer assisted design template).  From what I can discern at this juncture, the ignition module itself may be reduced to its essentials.  If that is so, the balance of the gizmos (sans idiots switches) can wired like any good ol' motorcycle.

We've got a long winter, and my shop is warm.

Peace & Grease, Dennis

[Rusty Bucket]

Well, true enough my 20+ year-old Sporty had few tricks hidden in it's wiring.  It didn't even use tracered-wire, everything being solid colour and rarely changing throughout entire runs.  After removing the parts I wasn't re-using, I found the Sportster's wiring easy and pleasant enough to work with, except for falling into the stupid trap of putting the handlebar wiring IN the handlebars - which I did because I thought it would be expected, and have already had cause to regret.  Maybe it would have made sense on the original + 6" risered Ape-hangers, but the wiring on mine disappears inside the handlebars for a total of about 4";  an utter waste of effort.   The connector blocks had been extensively and cruelly dicked-with (reddee to welease your pin now Mr Bond?), and I ended up making individual connections inside the headlight shell rather than using the stock-style blocks (meant to be hidden under the headlight's 'foreskin'), the pins for which were slightly different than the Molex pins they appeared to be.  Speaking of whch, I should return Fast1's pin-removal tool - or deliver it to Dennis.

[fast1]

  I believe Dennis will use it first.