Pictures at a link below....
It all started strangely when everyone showed up on time at the Husky so we actually got going on time. This led to us missing the brunt of the storm that hit PG an hour later. It passed mostly to the east of us, we got spit on a bit, and the wind came up. We saw quite a few lightning strikes. We arrived in Quesnel, mostly dry, and met up at the gas station. We debated a little about going do the West Fraser road, but in deference to Rick?s Harley, we chose the highway. Lyle, Guy and Ted?s friend who joined up for this part of the ride turned and made for home while we pushed on to Williams Lake. Just outside of Quesnel we started to run into smoke. The storm that pelted PG came through the Cariboo as dry lightning, sparking numerous fires. One fire could be seen across the Fraser near where the West Fraser road is, so we were feeling pretty good about the decision not to go that way. We passed a number of other fires and trried to stop at tbe pub at McLeese Lake. It was closed, and just then the volunteer fire department came into the parking lot looking like they already had a long afternoon. Fearing being deputised, we puched on towards the Overlander Pub in Williams Lake. Just outside of WL, we noticed huge column of smoke above the town near the airport. We got to the pub and promptly lost Olaf, who went searching for gasoline as he noticed long lineups. Reunited, we went on and were told by the waitress that we would be the last group served dinner as the cook staff had homes near where we saw the smoke column. We offered to not order, but they insisted we eat. During dinner and drinks, we found out that Hwy 97 behind us had been closed at Kersley not long after we had passed, but also Highway 20 in front of us was also closed. Additionally, Highway 97 south of us was closed at 150 mile for a monster fire. Effectively trapped, we made for the camp ground which was rapidly filling up with people who were evacuating from south, got our tents setup and had a few drinks to see what the morning would bring.
Up and at it early, the news was still not good until 8am when it was announced that Highway 20 was reopened. We met up with Ted who had ridden down to WL earlier than us. Being not so bright, we decided to press on that was as it was the only way open. We decided that only fire or water would stop us. About 10 miles from Lees Corner, we ran into the fire. Many fenceposts were burned up and a couple power poles were over as well. Lots of stumps were burning, but by and large the major event was over in this area. We got to Lees Corner and it was gone, burnt in the night. Only things standing were the sign, the propane tank, the pumps, and the telephone booth. There was still fire coming out of the ground from an oil or diesel tank. Rick and Olaf took their leave from the rest of us there and started to head back, we had heard earlier that Highway 97 was open to northbound traffic. Continuing on, the fire stopped just a couple mikes outside of the Anaham Band gas station. We fuelled up there and they had us check in so they knew who was passing through. Getting to Tatla Lake it was time to have lunch and fuelling up was in order. We fuelled up and went over to the restaurant. Shortly before we ordered, the power blipped twice and went out. The cook could still make us lunch though as she was cooking with propane, but we would have to pay with cash. Those bent over lines ealier had either come down or Hydro had shit them down. We were feeling pretty lucky that we decided to fuel up first. Guy did a quick valave adjustment on the R75 and we continued on to Anahim Lake were we got more fuel. Anahim Lake is on it?s own power grid. That was the end of the pavement until the bottom of The Hill. We sent Dennis off first as he wisely chose to ride his hardtail Harley for the trip. We all passed him and waited at a pullout for him to catch up. We did this once more at the rest/chainup area at the top of the hill. The road to then was a mixture of hardpack that was good riding and pea-gravel.which wasn?t. Time for The Hill. First, we had a quick shot of liquid courage the Guy had brought. Piece of cookie, it was really well maintained, just a couple spots of washboard out of the hairpins. We sent Dennis on first, did the pass him wait routine at a nice lookout half way down. Once more and we hit the bottom where we had a shot of liquid congratulations that Guy had brought. The road into Hagensborg is a nice ride. Great corners, mostly good pavement (though Dennis may argue that in spots). We connected up with our host Blair, and Paul led us into their place while Guy and Blair went on a beer run. Blair and his wife Amber cooked us up a great salmon dinner, we met some of his neighbours and their relatives, and generally told lies and BS?d until late.
The morning brought coffee and a trip into Bella Coola to get some breakfast. We learned that cell service in the valley went down during the night. The TV showed us the extent of the wildfire crisis, some of which we had ridden through. Trying to pay, we also learned that Interac and ATM?s were out. Cash was king and we were lucky that some had reserves. We spent that day riding around here and there, going up a road we had no business attempting to see a set of waterfalls, bailing on that when it was prudent, going to a more accessible falls just past town. I found that the one grocery store had working Interac machines and were able to provide cash out of the till, so this averted the cash crunch some of us were in. Blair cooked us a nice burger and sausage dinner and the Internet in the valley came back on. We then learned that Highway 20 was once more closed, so now we were trapped in Bella Coola. We debated what to do, stay in Bella Coola an extra day or try our luck and make for WL and hope the road was open. We chose the latter, knowing that access to gas might be a problem. Paul got a 5L jerry can from Blair, Neil and Guy were already packing 5L each. Ted was confident he could make it the whole distance, and I was confident I could make the distance if I got gas at Anahim Lake. Dennis had no real idea what his range was. We had another enjoyable evening of telling lies and BS?ing. The morning came early, and we learned that Highway 20 was open to eastbound traffic only. We chose to get on the road early and bade farewell to Blair and Amber and were on the road with full tanks by 7:45. A nice ride to The Hill, though we noticed it was a bit chilly as compared to the days before. We did the same routine of sending Dennis first, but all of us felt more confident going up than coming down, so the ride up went fairly quickly. It was cold going up the hill. At the top we had a shot of liquid warmth that Neil had brought, and we were into the smoke. Continuing down the gravel to Anahim Lake, we all noticed that out gravel comfort level had increased significantly, doing 70-80km/h and Ted hitting 110 just to say he did. Another shot of liquid warmth that Neil had broughtand it was to the gas station. Restaurant was closed in Anahim Lake, but open in Nimpo Lake. Unfortunately, we hit it was the time the cook had quit making meals and started making pies. She begrudgingly made us breakfast which was quite good and we were off. At Tatla Lake, we pulled in to see if they had gas, but they were still out of power and locked tight. Going further on, we got to Redstone and I noticed a truck was at the fuel pump so we made a quick left and found that both their pumps and Interac were working. We all filled up and nobody was in fuel trouble anymore. Some of us debated going up the Meldrum road at that point, Dennis was still unsure what he was going to do as his plan was to meet a buddy in Lilloett, which he couldn?t get to due to the road closures. We rode on to the Anaham Band gas bar and checked back in. We learned from the fire crew there that the entire West Fraser area was under an evacuation order, so travelling through Muldrum and West Fraser roads was out. Only thing to do was head into WL. East of Anaham, we returned to the fire that we went through on the way in, but it had burned much further eastwards, with spots almost to the top of the hill down to the Fraser. Meeting up at the Laughing Loon to get some dinner and a beer, we all made the decision to continue on to PG. We were all pretty stiff and sore by then, but the appeal of getting home and not being in the way of what was happening around us. An uneventful drone up the highway to PG saw us rendezvous at the Westwood Pub for a celebratory drink. There, we learned that WL was under an evacuation alert.
So, there you have it. In the end, 6 idiots having a great time amidst total chaos, dodging every bullet shot our way. From storms, to fire, to highway closures, to fuel and money issues, they all either happened after we passed though, or solved themselves before we got there. Guy lost a bolt holdng his headlight on. I busted the tip of a footpeg of during a tipover at the Anahim Lake gas station and Dennis popped his seat springs couple times, but other than that, the bikes ran great. Oh.. and suicidal cows.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/R6B5vKh41ZRR93s83 
