Matchless Cams

[Qball]

After f*&#ing around of epic proportions, I still can't get the matchless to run proper.  If anyone has a lead on SH matchless cams please let me know.  Thanks in advances

[Kaw-meister]

bring the bike with all parts to PG...beer for Hans and myself and we will perform another miracle...lol, Hans does not yet know this...

[Dennis]

I was present last summer when Q-Ball had plenty of "advice" in trying to get the Matchless working.  Lots of good ideas and attempts, but it just wouldn't go.

I was in a similar situation with the Smithers XS650 Bobber, and it was Hans who had the eureka moment (magnets in electronic ignition system ... two were missing).  Maybe Paul's onto to something.

Peace & Grease, Dennis

[british bulldog]

QBall Buddy if you are going to bring or ship the old girl to P.G. take to Jim Anderson problem solved. You will be racing against us next year then. Its awesome to keep trying but some times we all need a little expertise i no i do bud. He is known to be one of the best at this game.

Bulldog     

[Qball]

so I found the new SH cams that originally crumbled out of the bike.  they are on the way, had a long chat with paul the other morning and will have one more crack at her before i book my trip out for a visit.  Fingers crossed!

[Matchlessaj]

Hi,  The SH  or  CI cams are meant for and work with the later short stroke post 1956 competition engines, alloy barrel , High comp domed piston, hemi head and enclosed pushrod tubes. If you have an iron barrelled engine , separate pushrod tubes, and a flat top piston even machining out the camcase to make fit will not really be of help. Better off with a set of roadster cams  or a set of H cams if you can find them. I will look in through my spares this weekend. The cams will press out of the spindles if heated , they are identical , only the spindles different to drive the mag.   Cheers,  Matchless dave 

[Qball]

thanks dave.  this one has had me stumped.  it had the SH in there when I got the bike as a complete wreck.  I jerry rigged an ignition together from snow mobile parts and used the original points for timing only and managed to race in vernon on the first year.  I then tore apart the ignition, got a new lucas mag and cams with no marks and have not had it run right since.  the cams had to be changes as they were on the verge of disintegration. I even tried putting the rust old ones back in to no avail.  I loved the bike on year one.... now on year three sticks of dynamite seem to be a better idea.  The bike was raced flat track in california back in the 60s and 70s.  It is very rough but thought keeping her alive would be fun. 

The bike is a: 1952 steel sleeve, 1954 aluminum valve cover, 1955 bottom end, 1953 transmission (as best i have been able to determine.)  I have spent wayyyyyy too much money on it and hopefully can stop the money wound from bleeding soon.  It has been a fun project but my patience is starting to wear out.

[stevecrout]

From personal experience -- the only way to stop bleeding money into these things is to attach a long rope or chain to them and consider them your new boat anchor.  Otherwise it's all part of the adventure - right?

Consider too - if you weren't pouring money into something like this that gives you pleasure on occasion what on earth would you do with all that extra money?

[Qball]

Ya I know, I do love it.  Just would rather be riding than wrenching some days

[Matchlessaj]

Hi,  So a steel sleeve in an alloy barrel from 1952 to 1955  would have taken an H cam originally. If you have a low compression piston , flat top ,it will run on roadster cams. no top end but ok off the line. You did make sure that you lined the dots up correctly when you set the cams in the case. I have an article on how to do it as the manual can be confusing. If you send me a picture of the cam I can identify it .  dblagdon@shaw.ca.  Some roadster cams did not have an identifier stamp .If you have a high compression piston the timing will have to be dead on, otherwise will never get to run properly. Jimmy knows where to set them and is different from the "book" Cheers  Dave

[Hans]

We read that manual the original time we set up the cams and farmer ignition system before O'keefe 2 years ago.  I do believe it was written in a language known as "British".  It was rather incomprehensible.  Eventually we reverted to base principles of 4 stoke engines in order to get it running.

[Qball]

I will take some pics this weekend and send.  The new SH cams came in today.

[Qball]

so dots on the new cams are same locations but different numbers from the other SH cams that originally we got to run in the bike.  the lobes are approximately the same (close as F&*K is to swearing).  I just spent an hour hooking everything up exactly reverse rotation of the crank...aaaahh crap.  Then I put it back together right way as per degrees for intake-exhaust of what the book says.  it now blows fuel out the carb...Hans and paul, I think we had this issue before!?  I think the SH duration of open is too long so I need to open them sooner,  It doesn't make sense but I think this is what happened before.  Im going back out to the garage after a beer and snack.... I hope the end is in sight!  Dave, does any of this make sense to you?  Remember this is a Frankenbike.

[Hans]

My hazy recollection is that we made sure we had the intake cam in the right position first and picked with the exhaust cam after and actually managed to get the dots to line up.  Have pics of the cams?

[Qball]

So I just got back inside... Bike is sucking, compressing, power and blowing.  Seemingly perfectly.  it feels smooth and "right" if you know what i mean.  No kicking back and bucking, i set the ignition timing, checked it 3 times.  bike still isn't firing!  friggg!  not a pop or bang or nothing!  it has only 90psi compression when i warmed up the cylinder, but it is only running 5.9:1 ratio so doesn't seem too off.
the dots ended up lining up (like last time)  I don't know.  just buttoned her all up but, no luck!  i see other posts saying that 110+psi is needed.  Im thinking pulling the head off and checking valves...thoughts?