1984 Honda Magna 750CC

[Dennis]

Chieftain is always worth a shot.  I managed to get replacement Allen bolts for my 1980 KZ750 starter clutch, and they were a pretty random size.

For a nice selection of metric allen cap bolt is Fastenal up on the Hart.  My last experience with them was not great because they had to order stuff, but screwed up the order.  However, they do stock on the shelves a nice selection of metric bolts.  If you can't find it, don"t order it.

[benwaechter]

I found some but cannot get the bolt out. Tried extracting it and things went south. Wondering if anyone has a master cylinder lever combo off of a Honda though would like to sell. Prefer one designed for a dual disc bike but I think others will work.

[fast1]

   If you (carefully) drill or grind the head off the screw the cover should come off and there should be just enough left to grab with a small pair of vise grips. Barring that take it to Jeff.  Where did you find screws?? CHEERS.

[benwaechter]

Cycle north. Talked to someone competent. I am way beyond drilling the head off. No repairing this mistake. Need a new one. I think I'll head to Roy's tomorow and hope he has one.

[fast1]

   You might try Kim at K+K motors. Bought a voltage regulator from him for 30 bucks this week. Didn't help. CHEERS.

[benwaechter]

Is there anyone on the forum that is a good welder? I want to make some bars for my bike out of 7/8 pipe but I don't know that I trust my welds on pipe that small. I can pay. Thanks.
Ben.

[benwaechter]

Another question for you all. My Magna runs great when cold, starts easy, idles well. But when I ride for a bit and shut it down it doesn't want to start for a while after. I am suspecting the voltage regulator is faulty, I have read they heat up when the bike is running in an attempt to get rid of the excess voltage created by the generator. My idea is to ride it until this happens, then hold an ice pack onto the thing and hope that the quick cooling will allow me to start again. Does anyone see any downsides to this idea? (besides water and electrical) also does anyone thing it is worth looking at roys for one? used one may be cheap but may be the problem again.
thanks
ben.

[The_Heathen]

My understanding is that the voltage regulator only functions to control the voltage going to the battery.  If the regulator is bad, the battery voltage would drop.  If the battery has sufficient juice, the bike will run without a functioning reg/rect for over an hour.  Have you checked the voltage across the terminals while it is running?  When you say it won't start, do you mean the starter is not turning the engine over or the engine won't catch?

[benwaechter]

It is cranking fine but wont catch, has fuel, has air, has compression. Only leaves spark. This is the only thing I can find so far that is common. Not sure how to test the regulator. The battery seems to be charging fine when running but won't start when warm. I cannot test it when it is acting up because I can't start it.

[The_Heathen]

If you pull the plug and leave attached to the plug wire, you can visually check for for spark.  If there is no spark (or crackling noise) it could be your igniter (or equivalent component). 

[Hans]

My Suzuki 400 was like that, traced it finally to a set of coils that were breaking down when they got warm.  Solved when replaced.

[thejij]

I'm pretty sure that when you go to parkers house, you guys will figure it out.

Trust the guys on the forum here... without Parker or them and fast1.. my bike surely would not be running and providing me many many joyeous hours of riding this weekend !

[benwaechter]

So tonight I pulled my one valve cover to look into a noise I started to hear on my last ride. The cam chain seemed to be quite loose. I looked into how the cam chain tensioner works and could  not decide if it was working or not without pulling the one camshaft and the tensioner. Once I pulled the tensioner I found half of the tensioner spring in the tensioner. I cannot find the other half. I think I am left with no choice but to pull the oil pan and hope it is there. Then find a new one, then install it all and hope nothing is wrong. On a side note I will for sure be putting the oil line mod on this bike, with only 22,000, (the one camshaft that is notorious for pitting) does have some pitting. All in all a pain in the butt and disappointing to say the least. Not sure when I will get it on the road, have to find a spring that is suitable and get the oil pan off, that requires pulling the exhaust, etc.
If you have a source for springs and patience I will take directions to either. Thanks.

[fast1]

  The spring is steel so most of it should be on the oil plug magnet. If it is do a good flush and you shouldn't have to pull the pan. As for the tensioner try k&k motors first. Roy won't sell parts off a complete motor. CHEERS.

[benwaechter]

For some unknown reason there is no magnet on the pan plug, besides one hard to get at bolt, the pan will be fairly easy to remove. Also don't think that a bike that has sat for over 10 years could be harmed by getting all the other junk that has built up in there. Either way I will have to source a spring, I will call KK motors on Monday, thanks. If not I will call the dealers. I doubt they can get me that though. Thanks again.