Prince George Vintage Motorcycle Club
Technical Section => Complete Rebuilds => Topic started by: Dennis on November 02, 2016, 10:40:45 PM
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Winter 2016/17. 1978 XS1100 Yamaha. I got this bike a few years ago when Shep was a new member. While visiting his garage on a club night I noticed the bike under some snow and leaves; definitely needing some love. At that time I was looking for a shaft drive bike to build a 70's style chopper trike. I mentioned to Shep that I was interested in the bike. He offered it to me for free and I graciously accepted. At that time it had a well weathered touring fairing, panniers and rotted seat. The first thing on arrival in my possession was to tear off and ditch all that junk.
As with many bike projects, it was stored for several years in my garage. I acquired a Chevy S10 differential and some cool wheels for the trike project. Then nothing. The GS650 mono shock caf? racer, the Stolen Sportster, and two rigid XS650s intervened, while the XS1100 stood quietly parked (now loved in a heated garage), awaiting its moment of resurrection. Alas, this is the time.
At least two years ago I realized that the trike project just wasn't in me for this bike. The XS1100 was the fastest production motorcycle in 1978 until Honda introduced the 6 cylinder CBX (only slightly faster). This should be revived as a motorcycle, but like all of my projects, a stock restoration is not going to happen either. It is going to me a motorcycle built for riding, and built for riding fast. That means it will not be a hard-tailed chopper/bobber.
I got it up on the stand.
(http://i.imgur.com/tc61Gvy.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/eEHmiMf.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/6VVruBO.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/5x3Wcg3.jpg)
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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One of the reasons my enthusiasm for a trike project waned was because the S10 rear differential I have would have to run in reverse. Ring and pinion gears are designed to be optimal in one direction. The S10 was also sold in 4wd (and the Blazer). Query: anyone know if the ring and pinion from the front diff would work in a rear diff? Just reconsidering my options.
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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let me know what you find out for the rear end there denis. I have the same bike here I was thinking of a similar project
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A trike build could be interesting to follow. I say exhaust all options down that route first. At any rate, have fun with it.
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My two cents. During my career I have ridden both trikes and sidecars. you already have the better of the 2. With a sidecar you can straddle a pot hole, with a trike you pick which wheel is going through it. Steering effort is markedly increased due to 2 wide contact patches "pushing" 1 narrow one. On loose gravel at low speed it won't turn at all--just scrubs the front tire sideways, but they do attract attention and girls... you already have one of those! CHEERS.
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I think you should find the front diff from the s-10 turn it around, use the independent suspension and turn it into a lowrider at the same time...
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I haven't posted in awhile despite much work being done. I have been having difficulties with photos. This is a test to see if my new iDick and Imgur app will work.
After I decided to go with the trike project, I went and dug the differential I had out of the snow and brought it home. This was a couple months ago.
(http://i.imgur.com/q9wRmTA.jpg)
Had some Club members over after a Tuesday night meeting and we (Ted actually) hammered off the totally rusted on brake drums.
Since then I have purchased a complete disc brake set up, had the diff sand blasted, and it is currently with Jeff to get narrowed 12 inches.
Since my iDick and Imgur app seem to now be working, I will try to keep some photos coming. I rebuilt the carbs, and their resurrection would have been a great photo op.
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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Denis, it is funny we seem to be on the same path. I just picked up an 1100 for a trike project as well. Have you determined if there is any issue with rotation of the drive shaft vs differential rotation? What differential are you using? Are you going to shorten the axle or just run full width? I literally just picked up the 1100 last week and haven't even developed a plan yet. do you have a vision yet?
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Denis, it is funny we seem to be on the same path. I just picked up an 1100 for a trike project as well. Have you determined if there is any issue with rotation of the drive shaft vs differential rotation? What differential are you using? Are you going to shorten the axle or just run full width? I literally just picked up the 1100 last week and haven't even developed a plan yet. do you have a vision yet?
The rusty old differential is from a 1989 Chevy S-10. I picked it because the drive ratio is approximately 10% less than the xs100 final drive ratio... at least that's what I recall when I did the calculations a few years ago.
Yes it will be narrowed. It is currently with Jeff for that. I am narrowing 6 inches on each side. That should result in a 39" width flange to flange.
I do not anticipate much problem with running in reverse. The load is much lighter than a pick-up truck.
The drum brakes were beyond salvage so I bought a complete disc kit. A trike in BC has to have a parking brake. These calipers have a mechanical actuator as well as hydraulic.
(http://i.imgur.com/xRNEeeR.jpg)
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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Is this the xs that came from Smithers?
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Nope, that bike is a 650 now known as the Smithers bobber. Probably the bike of Dennis' I envy the most. This one came from Shep a few years ago after a shop night, took him this long to decide what to do with it. CHEERS.
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The XS I was wondering about came from the same place as the 400 2 stroke drag bike that Dennis built a few years back.
Bob
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Right on. Nice to hear you decided on a trike. Looking forward to watching your progress.
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The XS I was wondering about came from the same place as the 400 2 stroke drag bike that Dennis built a few years back.
Bob
Close but no cigar. The expansion chamber on the Drag Bike came from the same place as I got the S-10 differential; Mike Olan just west of Hooterville.
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The carbs were actually done over the last couple months. This is what they looked like when I started.
(http://i.imgur.com/IMcBlwu.jpg)
I wish I had some better pictures of the carbs disassembled. They were a real mess. The photos of the goo on the needles sort of shows what I was dealing with. They were completely bunged up. Whenever someone is doing a carb rebuild the discussion always comes up about the best way to clean them. I have tried just about everything. These ones were disassembled (all brass bits removed) and soaked submerged in Hydro-Seal for a couple of days. All the goo came off easily after that. So far, Hydro-Seal has been the best method I have used.
(http://i.imgur.com/wt8l4QA.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/eBeJHir.jpg)
Now they're beautiful. All new jets, floats, etc.
(http://i.imgur.com/qcoCWmc.jpg)
Jeff shortened both axels 6", and the diff case 6" each side; 12" narrower than stock.
(http://i.imgur.com/20jJbyw.jpg)
The bolt/studs for the lug nuts are too short for my new rotors and wheels. I ordered longer ones from Chieftain Auto. Once I have them I should be able to assemble the diff for a mock up.
Peace & Grease, Dennis.
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Those carbs look great. That's always a ton of work. Rearend looks good too.
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At the Shop Night a couple Tuesdays ago, Club members helped pull the engine out of the XS1100. I have an old punching bag stand on wheels which actually works quite well as an engine hoist. I picked up the chain hoist for $90 at Princess Auto (on sale).
(https://i.imgur.com/O1xTcLU.jpg)
I will be making the entire frame myself; it will be 1.25 inch DOM tubing. Picked up a bunch today.
(https://i.imgur.com/G2S3lLR.jpg)
I also had the wheels sand blasted.
(https://i.imgur.com/sxgttTK.jpg)
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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To get at the neck stock without a cutting torch and only zip blades on my angle grinder meant cutting off bits at a time.
This is what I ended up with ....
(https://i.imgur.com/yLkmKcn.jpg)
...after cutting away all this.
(https://i.imgur.com/pMkvNpP.jpg)
Peace and Grease, Dennis
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I ordered some parts and tools today in anticipation of some next steps.
At some point in the not too distant future, I will be having to actually make my disc brakes work. I had some great tech support from Wilwood Engineering (all things brakes). After confirming the caliper piston diameter, and the brake lever ratio of 6 to 1, they recommended a 3/4" bore master cylinder. I ordered this one because there are two mounting options, and it just looks old and simple.
(https://i.imgur.com/xzvCHdm.jpg)
I also ordered a residual pressure valve which will be necessary because I expect the master cylinder to be mounted lower than the calipers (to prevent fluid leaking back because of gravity).
(https://i.imgur.com/QMwcsWn.jpg)
Lastly, and most costly, was a new die for my JD Squared Tubing Bender. I want to build the back bone part of the frame out of 1.5" tubing. This will be a single tube so I wanted it a bit larger than the 1.25" that the rest of it is made out of. However, I don't have a die, so I took the plunge and ordered one from HMS Tools.
(https://i.imgur.com/2yr9Kwf.jpg)
I ordered 1.5" tubing from Encore Metals (formerly T&S Tubing and Shafting). I will only need a few feet of it, but since I just splurged for the new die, I figured I might as well buy the "crop" piece they had in stock which is 15 feet long.
I have Jeff working on some small bits for motor mounts, and butt joining tubes. I hope to have them this weekend so I can get some progress on the lower part of the frame.
While at Jeff's shop, I got to see the work he is doing on my drive shaft project. A little tough to describe without pictures, so I'll save that for another post.
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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Jeff lent me a cool tool for painting wheels.
(https://i.imgur.com/kvefbTB.jpg)
It wasn't level so I made some mods.
(https://i.imgur.com/GNs7JHM.jpg)
Very handy.
(https://i.imgur.com/0IFhZtL.jpg)
Jeff started working on the drive shaft. He found a Suzuki Samarai that has a universal joint that almost perfectly bolts to the output flange/plate on the XS1100. However, the output flange/plate needs a little modifying
(https://i.imgur.com/mFYII9x.jpg)
Lots planned for this weekend.
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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It took a lot of subtle adjustments to get the first two tubes exactly where I wanted them.
First with clamps.
(https://i.imgur.com/rQAQXvo.jpg)
Then tack welded jigs so hopefully I can lift the engine and drop it back exactly where I want it.
(https://i.imgur.com/POPfo4Y.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3oUuRMH.jpg)
The first mounts are tacked in. These were the easiest because I did not have to move the engine to make them fit.
(https://i.imgur.com/QRaMM3x.jpg)
The remaining mounts will be more complex, because the engine will have to be lifted out and lowered back as I make subtle adjustments (angle grinder) to the mounts.
After all the time spent farting around with getting things lined up just right, I don't want to risk the tubes moving, so I welded on some braces which will be cut off later.
(https://i.imgur.com/RWGH1k4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/B9gE63M.jpg)
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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Awesome job Dennis, Are we going to have another workshop night to help you with the trike?
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Enjoying your progress
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The motor mounts were probably the most complex fabricating I have ever done. They are all tack welded in place now.
(https://i.imgur.com/f9FtXCW.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/YTJtWaQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XpoVKxk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Xt9tV8u.jpg)
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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so while the rest of us were eating leftovers and being lazy you got busy....almost makes me feel guilty. CHEERS.
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Out of the jig. I used ready rod to stabilize the frame while I completed the welds.
(https://i.imgur.com/4J3eWaY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cfIEacC.jpg)
I don't expect too much progress over the next few weekends. I got a new sled, and my wife prefers sledding over house cleaning while I work in the garage.
My next step will be to modify the engine jig so I can position the engine on the floor at the exact height to get an idea how it will line up with the differential. I will also have to make a jig to hold the differential at the exact (or close to) the height it will be with tires (I have some flexibility with sidewall height). The angle of the drive shaft will determine how short I can make it (the drive shaft). I want the shortest wheel base I can get away with.
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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I got a few hours in on Sunday to work on modifying the engine jig. This should complete my metal fabricating for awhile, which I was waiting to do before cleaning up the mess. Metal fabricating is really messy.
(https://i.imgur.com/sbwJk59.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/R8Bt9ad.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hRnrwzj.jpg)
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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Dropped by Jeff's and picked up the front universal joint. It's from a Suzuki Sidekick and was slightly modified (picture earlier in thread). In the end, Jeff carved out part of the Suzuki piece rather than the output flange. The rest of the shaft and modified universal joint for the Chevy S-10 differential was still in his lathe.
I needed to check the angles the drive shaft would end up being, since this will determine how short I can go. After a little mock up, I am convinced I can make this super short. Probably shorter than I actually will want it.
(https://i.imgur.com/l1oA5tc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oQeImeP.jpg)
Peace & Geometry, Dennis.
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Getting in the odd hour here and there. Some jobs took a lot of time with little to show for progress. For example, after I welded up the tack mounted engine mounts, the engine would not quite fit back in. It appears that the lower front engine mounts caused the tube bends to curve another degree or so, resulting in the upper front motor mounts to be too close to the engine. I used a hydraulic jack to bend them back ... too far. Needed a torch and pry bar to get them back.
These two little holes used to be tapped and the old drum brake backing plate was screwed in. Totally rusted and seized. It took a Dremel, multiple drill bits, and hours to carve these out.
(https://i.imgur.com/5ApA63V.jpg)
I spent the time carving out the holes because the brake caliper mounts were supposed to bolt right up (using at least these two holes). Not quite. Looks like I will be doing some more fabricating.
(https://i.imgur.com/raCu7Vi.jpg)
Because of the extra thickness of the brake rotors, I needed longer studs. The originals were actually metric (interesting since the differential is a 1989 GM). I opted for 7/16" (common lug nut thread), and bought a set the correct length.
(https://i.imgur.com/PyjcNdM.jpg)
However, the little spliny bit at the base was just not spliny enough, and a couple would spin before the lug nuts were tight. I looked at some 1/2" studs, but they were too big for my rotors. In the end I went with cutting a small notch in each, and welding them in place.
(https://i.imgur.com/HyFAJrb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6BUYbwK.jpg)
Next up is to meet with Jeff to complete the drive shaft. Jeff wanted a distance from centre to centre of the universal joints, and until I couldn't do another mock up, I could tell him. I did that as well (18").
I also cut and fitted another frame brace (cross piece in rectangle steel). It won't be welded in until later after I determine the single back bone tube. The single back bone tube will run from the neck stock down to this brace, with one bend. 1.5" tubing (the rest is 1.25").
(https://i.imgur.com/TcT0xud.jpg)
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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After humming and hawing, I just could not come up with a good way of mounting the brake calipers. I spoke to Jeff who talked me out of some of the Draconian ideas I had (like cut off the mounting bracket already welded to the diff housing and starting over over). Jeff's idea was to just weld the mounting bracket that came with the kit, to the existing welded on mounting bracket on the diff housing. Cut and weld as needed.
(https://i.imgur.com/FLdNaPM.jpg)
This picture does not quite show the problem. The brackets if placed side to side, do not line up. The brackets that came with kit needed to be machined down about an 1/8" of an inch.
My camera stopped working so I don't have pictures of the screw up. The short version is we over machined, and now have to shore up with shims. That's one of the things I love about metal work; it can be very forgiving.
Jeff had to bolt for Movie Night so we did not quite finish. Hopefully a couple hours on the weekend will do.
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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Friday night I masked up the wheels in anticipation of painting.
(https://i.imgur.com/6dJinWU.jpg)
Did a coat of semi-gloss black in the shop. Not a good idea with the doors closed, so after painting I let things air out for awhile.
(https://i.imgur.com/Y0xxvXx.jpg)
Met up with Jeff on Saturday to finish the caliper brackets.
(https://i.imgur.com/GfxuatU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KoiD6hp.jpg)
The calipers fit great.
(https://i.imgur.com/Hc6uBtl.jpg)
During the sunshine on Sunday, I got some more painting in. I have couple coats of clear planned.
(https://i.imgur.com/VVP6FOA.jpg)
In between painting I worked on the parts for bolting the differential to the (yet to be fabricated) frame. I need a fairly large piece to weld the tubes to, and I figure I will be fabricating some kind of fender and rack mounts, so I opted for 2" x 4" box steel.
The small bracket with the male nub sticking up lines up with the whole in the 2" x 4" piece in the middle so I won't be relying on just the U-bolts to hold the differential in place. The small bracket will be welded on the differential.
(https://i.imgur.com/xDxkL4Z.jpg)
I won't commit to where I am going to weld on the brackets until I have everything lined up, leveled and squared. This is approximate.
(https://i.imgur.com/jSGFUrP.jpg)
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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The 2" x 4" steel block is only 1/8" thick on the walls. Since these are the points where the frame tubes will be welded (the top and the bottom of the 4" wide part), I was concerned there could be too much flex. I decided to weld in a brace right about where the tubes will be joining.
(https://i.imgur.com/Rvnym4Z.jpg)
All ends will be capped. I have the first one fitted and tacked in place.
(https://i.imgur.com/0Sefv5w.jpg)
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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I don't want to commit to the length of the driveshaft (which will determine how far aft my wheels and tires will be), without having a really good idea of what it will look like.
Bare rims were just not enough, so I took the plunge and got tires. These are so 70's ish.
(https://i.imgur.com/De3bAFl.jpg)
If I get a mock up tonight, I should be able to get Jeff to finish the drive shaft on Saturday. Its all done but for cutting the length and inserting into the universal joint piece which he has already machined and shimmed, and is just waiting for the overall length to be determined.
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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I spent some time at Jeff's on Saturday.
He had this piece made a month or so ago. It is the GMC differential yoke. You can see where he's fabricated a shim.
(https://i.imgur.com/OccIu0G.jpg)
This is the Suzuki drive shaft.
(https://i.imgur.com/jRxkBrG.jpg)
We cut it to the length I wanted and stuffed in the GMC yoke. He welded it and the did some really cool heating and shrinking to make it true.
I actually spent hours in the shop today building a jig for the neck tube. It not finished, and the parts that are would be hard to describe, so I'll hold off photos until it makes more sense.
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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Mocking up before I committed to the drive shaft length. I actually ended up about 3" longer than the photo. The neck tube will NOT be where it is in the picture. Its just there to get an idea of the rake I want.
(https://i.imgur.com/Hw7Kebz.jpg)
With the tyres, the narrowed differential looks cool.
(https://i.imgur.com/9lubR8i.jpg)
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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Are you going to build it with a 16 inch front wheel and is that it? How the heck is that rod standing by itself? It's going to be wicked cool! CHEERS.
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I am planning on using the stock 19" front wheel. The one in the mock up is the rear wheel because that is what I had kicking around.
The jig for holding the neck tube is not finished. When finished it will allow me to position the neck tube at various positions fore and aft, and up and down (and left to right, but that's for precision, not getting "the look"). I can say that now I am wishing I had gone for the super short drive shaft. Its amazing what a couple inches here and there can do for the overall geometry and style of a project like this.
I am getting stoked now that I can envision more with each mock up.
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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My plan has always been to use the stock XS1100 forks with extended tubes. Spoke to Franks Forks today. The US price is $450 which is reasonable. 6 - 8 weeks from time of order. I don't plan to finish this spring or summer (no race for the Show 'n Shine). Soon garage season will be over.
My quandary is that I am pushing the limit for the front fork angle. Stock motorcycle trail is no more than 35 degrees resulting in an except able trail.
(https://i.imgur.com/DnIkxVT.jpg)
While lots of choppers and chopper style trikes have long forks at high angles, the higher the angle, the more wheel trail there is and handling starts to really suffer.
(https://i.imgur.com/lGs97pR.jpg)
There are various remedies, but they all revolve around the same concept: modifying the front end to reduce trail. In the diagram below its been done with raked triple trees.
(https://i.imgur.com/V0xKKBe.jpg)
I have read lots of trike forums and articles and they pretty much all concur that keeping trail down to about 2 inches makes for a nice handling trike. If I still want the front wheel further out front (very important for the chopper look), then I really should be looking at ways to reduce the trail.
Girders and Earls (a.k.a. Leading LinK) are common home fabricated front ends for trikes, but most are ugly (this is the best looking one in my mind)
(https://i.imgur.com/H0UGmu8.jpg)
Spending the bucks for an extended and already raked front end kit may be an option (like Alwyn's Chopper).
Another way of keeping the angle within tolerable limits and still having the front wheel out front is simply by raising the neck tube. This is pretty common also.
(https://i.imgur.com/J6rbney.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QKO1JB9.jpg)
The best looking trike out there probably handles like a turd. Too bad its just sooooo cool looking.
(https://i.imgur.com/uyHw3b0.jpg)
Peace and Geometry, Dennis
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I've spent way too much time researching the fork issue since my last post. Currently I am leaning towards a Harley Wide Glide. The pros: 16" front wheel, tons of parts available including raked triple trees. Prices for used stuff and aftermarket is pretty cheap actually. Franks Forks $450 US for extended tubes for my Yamaha 37mm tubes, plus delay, plus shipping isn't looking very attractive anymore.
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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Mock up with Mustang gas tank, 43 degree rake, drive shaft sorta in place.
(https://i.imgur.com/AZCDWq6.jpg)
Further to my last post about fork angles etc, placed a bid on Ebay and scored a determining win. Harley Wide Glide, 10" over, fork brace, dual brake caliper for $300 US. With shipping, taxes and tariffs, USD 425. Less than the Franks Forks extended tubes for the XS1100.
(https://i.imgur.com/Kng1uxa.jpg)
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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Shovel heads in the 80's had aluminum wheels that would be a good mate to your rears--a little heavy but they can usually be found for cheap, betcha' Keith has or knows of one. You're going to need Jeff again as the Harley has a 1 inch shaft versus 7/8 on the Yammie. Mock up looks great! Actually seen video of Russell Mitchell riding the Exile trike and seemed to ride okay-it was for a build off. CHEERS
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Shovel heads in the 80's had aluminum wheels that would be a good mate to your rears--a little heavy but they can usually be found for cheap, betcha' Keith has or knows of one. You're going to need Jeff again as the Harley has a 1 inch shaft versus 7/8 on the Yammie. Mock up looks great! Actually seen video of Russell Mitchell riding the Exile trike and seemed to ride okay-it was for a build off. CHEERS
Great minds think alike. The AMF 16" mag wheels used on Harleys in the late 70's early 80's would be a perfect match for my rear wheels. Gonna hit ebay again.
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I'm pretty sure the bottom cool looking trike doesn't steer the front wheel, it just flops it over and hopes for the best. Keep up the work, looking interesting.
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Shovel heads in the 80's had aluminum wheels that would be a good mate to your rears--a little heavy but they can usually be found for cheap, betcha' Keith has or knows of one. You're going to need Jeff again as the Harley has a 1 inch shaft versus 7/8 on the Yammie. Mock up looks great! Actually seen video of Russell Mitchell riding the Exile trike and seemed to ride okay-it was for a build off. CHEERS
Great minds think alike. The AMF 16" mag wheels used on Harleys in the late 70's early 80's would be a perfect match for my rear wheels. Gonna hit ebay again.
"...betcha' Keith has or knows of one..."
Yup. Great match.
(https://i.imgur.com/c3Ca8qm.jpg)
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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Fantastik, a stiff nylon brush and a hose will make the white letters really white. CHEERS.
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Picking up where I left off in April. The project was put on hold for the summer months. No weekends at home, lots of sunshine, and what time I did spend in the shop was routine maintenance. A rainy long weekend is a sign that fab time is approaching.
I left off with having many parts finished and getting ready for the final frame build. My plan is to use a straight line on the floor, and center everything to the line.
I borrowed (in the spring ...) a laser from Paul. Worked great.
(https://i.imgur.com/QRq2Mvh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7YJIbgN.jpg)
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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I needed to assemble the front forks for the mock up, and to see if all of the parts I've purchased on Ebay will actually go together.
I am pleased with the parts. Everything went together fine.
I've decided to not use the registered Yamaha neck tube. I purchased an aftermarket neck tube from a chopper supplier, which is designed for Harleys. I purchased Harley bearings and races. I will deal with the registration issue later.
(https://i.imgur.com/Te7I8PI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wsyynCv.jpg)
I did a rough mock up to get the steering neck jig close to where it will be when I start fabricating. I need to stare at it for a few more hours to decide if I am ready to make the commitment.
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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Back to mock ups. Always fun to kick start some garage time.
(https://i.imgur.com/afA2NcT.jpg)
Measure twice, cut/weld once.
As discussed previously, trail is important in how the trike will handle. I think this will be perfect.
(https://i.imgur.com/LWsVGDr.jpg)
Screwed up assembling the universal joint. I used too much pressure when it was obvious something was not right (some of the roller bearings in one cup had dropped out of place and blocked the bearing cup from sliding on).
The first sign something was wrong.
(https://i.imgur.com/Tc2n783.jpg)
Confirmed. Bent.
(https://i.imgur.com/lv306tj.jpg)
I could have heated this up and bent it back myself, but I figure I am going to want it line bored afterwards, so I will see if Jeff is working in this winter.
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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Jeff opined that if the yoke were bent back carefully, it probably would not have to be line bored. Plus he reminded me that I have a spare; the original Suzuki Samurai donor drive shaft had identical ends. It would be easier to just machine the spare to fit the Yamaha.
Bent yokes are very common with the 4x4 community. A quick google and I found this idea. With a few minutes of the torch (never got red hot though), it seems to have worked, but I have not yet tried to see if the new universal joint will go together.
(https://i.imgur.com/5DcwYsX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Q80anrl.jpg)
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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Got the drive shaft together ... at least enough for a measuring the final distance between the frame and the differential. I actually have a problem with the GM universal joint; I can't get the bearing cups in far enough to expose the circlip grooves. After screwing up the Suzuki end, I want to think it through before using a big F'ing hammer or a press.
Tapped out the yoke on the GM side. I have new mounting hardware.
(https://i.imgur.com/WlOOfWW.jpg)
Drive shaft in place. No clearance issues.
(https://i.imgur.com/vCNdSS6.jpg)
Set up my tubing bender for the 1.5" back bone tube. I learned that 1.5" tubing is a big as I can bend manually. It took all I had physically to bend the tube. Fortunately, there is only on 1.5" and the rest are 1.25" which I have bent before.
(https://i.imgur.com/P3n2quA.jpg)
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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I did some work before Christmas.
The back bone tube (1.5" tubing) went in easy. Learned that 1.5" (1/8th" wall thickness) is just about the most I can bend manually. It took all my strength to bend it. I then went onto the front down tubes connection to the neck tube.
(https://i.imgur.com/WMxGeix.jpg)
Up close you can see the gaps in my notches. I did the bends first and tried to free hand/eye the notches.
(https://i.imgur.com/Y4JhScV.jpg)
I am not satisfied with the notches, so I set up my notching jig and cut the notches first. If I have time this weekend, I am going try to bend the pieces I have notched to see if they will fit better.
(https://i.imgur.com/CBPTigb.jpg)
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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Better.
(https://i.imgur.com/GsWsE6o.jpg)
Bent, bevelled and welded the lower rear tubes. Made a wooden jig for part of the upper rear tubes.
(https://i.imgur.com/7kuN2ns.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/f2tBHrS.jpg)
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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I finished and tacked in this rear cross piece.
(https://i.imgur.com/BRgQ39l.jpg)
I made a jig for the upper two rear tubes connecting it to the back bone. It's basically just a flat plane to set the tubes on.
(https://i.imgur.com/IjF4rrK.jpg)
The two rear tubes need to be symmetrical, so I made this jig to carve them
(https://i.imgur.com/PuHAlOZ.jpg)
Mock ups are necessary to make sure I'm heading in the right direction. This mock up confirmed I am NOT going for the 70's style King 'n Queen chopper seat ... well at least not right now. It wouldn't be the first time I've changed my mind during construction of a bike.
(https://i.imgur.com/kxCA47s.jpg)
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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Rear tubes tack welded in and jig removed.
(https://i.imgur.com/P08AicI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ytY4IFd.jpg)
Used some wood in conjunction with my steel jig to line up the two front down tubes.
(https://i.imgur.com/SHh0xnf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OA2HJMp.jpg)
The jig was sacrificial. After disassembling what I could, the rest had to be cut out. Looking good though.
(https://i.imgur.com/FfdB811.jpg)
Removed the engine and differential so I could weld everything up.
(https://i.imgur.com/Wp0orkt.jpg)
I prefer to weld on flat surfaces, so I rotated the frame as I welded.
(https://i.imgur.com/gBMpkUZ.jpg)
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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I've had a few developments since my last post. Most positive ... one, not so much. Here's the play by play.
I reinforced the neck with these tubes.
(https://i.imgur.com/OmuwrA7.jpg)
The mounts on the differential had only been tacked in, so I disassembled the whole thing and finished the welds.
(https://i.imgur.com/1Hk6Brr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Wx2Z5kx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Md5EVdT.jpg)
While the axles were out, I reinforced the lug bolts. Two of the small welds I had done before had let go. I ground into the axle casting to improve my odds of full penetration welding.
(https://i.imgur.com/aQleHET.jpg)
I was pretty stoked that I was ready to stick the engine back in and actually have a roller when disaster struck. I had hoisted my engine onto the rolling table I regularly use in my shop (see the pic of the differential above). I was trying to put the engine on its side when suddenly it rolled, fell off the table and hit the concrete floor hard. A rear mounting casting is smashed right off.
(https://i.imgur.com/eYJbJ9b.jpg)
... and given the multiple bits, probably not repairable.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZJZgeLS.jpg)
I've already ordered a replacement bottom engine case from Ebay.
Things happen for a reason (my mental game of trying to create a silk purse from a sow's ear). My engine had obvious signs of an oil leak. However, because of its low kms, was just going to try to fix the leak, and give it the "rattle can rebuild." Now the engine is destined for a strip down and rebuild. No tears.
Peace & Pounding the Pavement, Dennis
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Ouch.... Aren't the top half of the case and the bottom half line bored to each other?
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Ouch.... Aren't the top half of the case and the bottom half line bored to each other?
I don't know. I hope not. Now I'm worried because I had the opportunity to buy complete cases when searching on Ebay.
I've already spoken with Paul about his xs1100 engine. He's willing to sell it to me if I wait until the snow is gone and he is back in town. It's buried deep.
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Ouch.... Aren't the top half of the case and the bottom half line bored to each other?
I visited Russell today for the first time in awhile. He opines it could be repaired. As long as the holes end up where they should.
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If it's like my FJ1200, the bottom case carries the bottom bearing shells, there are no main bearing caps.
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I'm not going to let the busted engine mount impede my momentum. There is a ton of fabrication still to do, and the trike needs to be a roller to do it. Decided to pick up where I left off, but this time lower the engine into the frame.
(https://i.imgur.com/Ip1cyw9.jpg)
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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If you want you can drop the engine off with me and I can weld that up for you. Or you can come up one night and try playing with the spool gun yourself if you want to. Either way, that is very repairable.
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If you want you can drop the engine off with me and I can weld that up for you. Or you can come up one night and try playing with the spool gun yourself if you want to. Either way, that is very repairable.
Thanks for the offer. I am definitely going to repair this engine. For now I am forging ahead with the other fabrication. I have no false beliefs that this will be finished this season. There will come a time for a tear down, and that will include the engine.
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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ITS A ROLLER !!
(https://i.imgur.com/rU6U206.jpg)
Saturday night. Could go dancing or to the movies, but I prefer garage time.
When I built the engine cradle last winter, I had to be careful with the front down tubes to make sure they were the same angle as the exhaust header and equally spaced between them. The photo doesn't quite show it, but I nailed it.
(https://i.imgur.com/Oy4W5eM.jpg)
I need to figure some way of using this Wilwood brake reservoir/master cylinder, a brake lever, and foot pegs. I start by staring at it for hours.
(https://i.imgur.com/KzMALAW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/f5VUkBx.jpg)
This is starting to get really fun. Cobbled together an old set of handle bars and risers, mounted the carbs, pushed on some mufflers, and bolted on a headlight just for a mock up.
(https://i.imgur.com/GQvzuvC.jpg)
Peace and Grease, Dennis.
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Its been awhile since I've done anything with the trike. During riding season, my shop time is all about maintenance of the machines I'm currently riding. Working in my heated garage is best when its super shitty outside ? like yesterday.
First thing was to finish draining the oil, sealing it up and adding new oil. Part of the next steps will include testing the starter motor and ignition, and maybe even firing it up.
(https://i.imgur.com/XTKUyUU.jpg)
I want to temporarily wire in a total loss ignition system just to see if it will work. The first step is to separate out the components from the original wiring harness. Big mess will lots of leftovers.
(https://i.imgur.com/UCuJ0Ow.jpg)
I thought I'd start at the sparky end. I don't think these coils and cables are going to work. The coil leads are impregnated into the coils, so simply changing the leads is ? not simple. I have seen on the WWW how to carve open the coils and replace the wires. I may do that for a test. It seems easier to just order some after market coils now and work on the zillion other bits that have to be done.
(https://i.imgur.com/PTbDyDT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PvZkVHC.jpg)
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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The XS1100 doesn't have a dipstick. You have to use the oil inspection window. Unfortunately, mine in opaque.
(https://i.imgur.com/cRDSx5N.jpg)
The capacity is 3.5 liters. I added 3 liters of 10/40 and 0.5 of diesel. I often will add some diesel to oil and run it a bit before changing all of the oil. Some mechanic told me years ago that fancy engine cleaner is just diesel.
(https://i.imgur.com/VoRbqfo.jpg)
I want to mock up and test the ignition, starter and charging systems.
I mounted the CDI box, voltage regulator/rectifier and the old fuse box to the frame and started running some wires.
(https://i.imgur.com/JNV3y8M.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/daEaIVy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4JR57OY.jpg)
When I was paring down the original harness, I generally cut wires to keep them as long as possible. I wish I would have been less enthusiastic last weekend, because now I have to redo this 4 prong connector (it was originally 5 prongs, but the blue one has to do with the neutral switch, and my pared down wiring diagram reports it is not necessary).
(https://i.imgur.com/oBTBXTE.jpg)
It is interesting in the photo above, that the wires coming from the pick up coils switch colours at this junction.
My new coils arrived today. Perfect timing. I will hit Chieftain for some cables ? when its warmer.
Peace & progress, Dennis
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In my last post I showed the picture of my opaque oil inspection window. From this picture, it is oblong, not round.
(https://i.imgur.com/cRDSx5N.jpg)
There a numerous part suppliers that list the inspection window for the XS1100, but the all look like this; obviously round.
(https://i.imgur.com/VPy7XY5.jpg)
I was googling around, and saw that this round oil window is used on all sorts of Yamahas. That would make sense; why have a bunch of different windows. Possibly round on the inside and oblong on the outside? A quick search of XS1100 clutch cover pictures on the WWW confirms this.
(https://i.imgur.com/eGJe4xb.jpg)
Nice to know this part will be easy to get.
Peace and Grease, Dennis
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The engine hasn't been turned over since ? forever. I bit of oil in the combustion chamber is wise.
(https://i.imgur.com/nNYb52x.jpg)
I thought a visual inspection of the stator/rotor and the ignition censors (pick up coils) would be wise. They look brand new clean.
(https://i.imgur.com/In0hhMF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rY0aEub.jpg)
Can't imagine these were from the factory. There was obviously some modifications. The bike did have an aftermarket fairing and panniers when I got it.
(https://i.imgur.com/4q7JTXj.jpg)
In anticipation of a Garage Night with the brethren, I got most of the wiring mocked up before they arrived, and finished while they were present. It was great to share the moment when a 42 year old engine comes to life after sitting idle for so long.
It wasn't so great when 2 seconds later, oil was blasting out the crankcase breather hose. Threw down some rags, finished my beer and smoked my pipe. I can clean this up later. I am confident that I simply overfilled the oil.
(https://i.imgur.com/r2qskci.jpg)
Peace & Grease (oil), Dennis
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Cleaned up the oil mess.
I wired the 2 litre pop bottle to the breather tube. I circulated the engine a whole bunch and only a drops came out. So far so good.
(https://i.imgur.com/0azG6iF.jpg)
In anticipation of trying to run the engine again, I made this throttle attachment.
(https://i.imgur.com/OiQIByi.jpg)
I also wired in and tested the starter relay switch. All the sparking with the screw driver directly on the relay was making me nervous, considering the spilled gasoline and ether I was using. I also want to see if the original Yamaha relay worked, because the after market ones I have used on other projects don't tolerate the vibration and abuse very well, and I have had one fail ? in the "on" position.
I was not able to get the engine running on my own. I will need at least one set of extra hands. I want to test the charging system before I move on from this electrical mock up.
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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With a little help from the brethren, we fired up the trike again last night.
Very quickly I had at least a litre of oil in my pop bottle.
(https://i.imgur.com/UXKoxdE.jpg)
Live and learn. The correct way to drain an XS1100 is to remove the drain plug. I previously "drained" the oil by only removing the oil filter. Brad removed the drain plug and ?
(https://i.imgur.com/04AVevN.jpg)
? had to put it back in before my oil drain pan over flowed. Oops.
We also checked the charging system, and its not working. Later Brad did some resistance tests and the stator is measuring 1.0 ohms (three phase = three tests) and it should be 0.4 ohms. Seems odd that all three phases of the stator would fail equally. I may do some more research first.
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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Dennis, did you zero the ohm meter before doing the resistance tests? Most digital multimeters will show some resistance when turned on with the leads shorted. This value (could be anywhere from 0.3 - 0.8 ohms) will be added to the actual resistance of the component being tested, in this case, your stator windings. If your meter doesn't have a zero function, just note the reading with the test leads shorted together and deduct it from the reading when measuring the stator resistance. This will be your true stator resistance.
If you already know all of the above, ? :P
Ted
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Dennis, did you zero the ohm meter before doing the resistance tests? Most digital multimeters will show some resistance when turned on with the leads shorted. This value (could be anywhere from 0.3 - 0.8 ohms) will be added to the actual resistance of the component being tested, in this case, your stator windings. If your meter doesn't have a zero function, just note the reading with the test leads shorted together and deduct it from the reading when measuring the stator resistance. This will be your true stator resistance.
If you already know all of the above, ? :P
Ted
Thank you Ted. I really wanted your input on this. No I did not "zero" my ohm meter, and I'm not sure if my Fluke gadget has that feature. I did see online reference to zeroing out the ohm meter however that was suggested for stators where the the acceptable range was really narrow and a precise measurement is needed. I'll check again.
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I believe zeroing the meter only applies to analog and not digital meters.
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That's true to some extent: not ALL digital meters can be zeroed - that's why I gave the direction on deducting the reading taken with test leads shorted from the reading taken from the component (stator winding) test.
I have six different multimeters in working condition; two analog (one of which is a high impedance type comparable to the digital units) and four digital ones. Of the digital units, two can zero out the ohms scale; two cannot. My Fluke meter is zeroed by pressing the "Rel ▲" button. Your Fluke meter may/may not have this function depending on what model it is.
Having said all that, I don't think the test results you got indicate any problem with the stator. The resistance is even from winding to winding and that 1 Ω resistance is not high enough to cause a no-charge condition. The problem likely lies elsewhere in the system. Hope this helps.
If you think I can help, let me know and I can drop over to assist testing the rest of the system.
What year is this engine/bike from?
T.
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Since I am using a Harley front end (including handlebars and controls), I needed to modify a Harley clutch cable to work.
I cut off the ferrule on one end and drilled out the cable outer tube so I could stuff the shortened piece back into it.
(https://i.imgur.com/x6rQFHY.jpg)
Lined up to the correct length.
(https://i.imgur.com/l7NLM7b.jpg)
Dug into my stash a cable bits...
(https://i.imgur.com/0BHQQD7.jpg)
? and found the perfect match.
(https://i.imgur.com/nDxOrqR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UqFcAMk.jpg)
Carefully unwound the cable.
(https://i.imgur.com/m3wbwRB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5Cb2gfi.jpg)
Soldered a big blob, and then filed it down.
(https://i.imgur.com/yt7lSiu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/X6GQn9M.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oEm4bcB.jpg)
Works like a charm.
(https://i.imgur.com/TxhxsaV.jpg)
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Made the throttle cable.
(https://i.imgur.com/nte21bR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Rk3Ikp6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NOQq55h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YF4SNi9.jpg)
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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It has been almost two years since I have done any actual work on the trike project. I have spent lots of time looking and thinking about the best way of fabricating this or that, but not actually building a thing. I did a lot of experimentation with fiberglass in anticipation of making side panels, only to put that whole endeavor on hold because I suck at it.
I thought I would dive into the fender mounts.
I used my metal bender with a pivot die that is very close to the side wall curve. A flat plate for the part I wanted to stay straight, and a large roller to bend around the pivot die.
(https://i.imgur.com/CbT6gKJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/K2OsfoC.jpg)
My fenders are not flat trailer fenders. They have a slight curve. That stumped me until I decided to just go for it. I don't have a lead shot bag, but I do have a gravel driveway.
(https://i.imgur.com/zSBlwUF.jpg)
I finished all of the brackets on an anvil. They all fit nicely with the inside curve of the fender.
(https://i.imgur.com/HY0QqBi.jpg)
Details ....
(https://i.imgur.com/xhwf5XC.jpg)
These brackets will be welded to either rod or 3/4" tubing, which will be welded to a bracket bolted to the frame. I have ordered a 3/4" by 3" radius die for my JD Squared tubing bender, but its back ordered so may be awhile. I would prefer to use tubing rather than rod. The fitment is going to be tight, and I can make much sharper bends in rod than tubing.
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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I'm going to make side panels to hide the battery and electrical stuff under the seat.
After talking to a high tech machinist and a computer geek, I've decided to try 3D printing. However, there is no way I'm going to learn CAD and design these on my computer. In the 3D printing world, things are commonly reverse engineered by scanning the item in 3D (special camera), and converting that information to CAD and then to the 3d printer.
It follows that I have to make a mock up of something that can be 3D scanned. I'm going to try it in Styrofoam. The advantage is I only have to make one side; the computer can make it mirror backward with just a couple mouse clicks. So I am told.... I am actually going to make the left and right side in styrofoam so if the 3d Printing doesn't work, I will still have two plugs to make molds and go down the fiberglass route.
First made a big block.
(https://i.imgur.com/67Iqsl6.jpg)
I made this to cut styrofoam. I use 2 amps through mig welding wire strung taught with a guitar tuner.
(https://i.imgur.com/vKVhuna.jpg)
Thin particle board I get for free from a local cabinet shop that otherwise throws them out. The particle board allows for straight cuts.
(https://i.imgur.com/SCammj5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/z6DnExu.jpg)
I did not glue on the bottom pieces of foam until at my Man Cave. I had a choice of 2" or 1" pre-cut. I went with the 1"
(https://i.imgur.com/U9Ff0xB.jpg)
Cutting the curve will be a challenge because the curve on the bottom is not going to be the same as the curve on the top (hypotenuse is always longer than base). No way I was going to do geometry. Top was easy; just clamp and draw a line.
(https://i.imgur.com/JzsD0ma.jpg)
The bottom was more work. I created a level and clamped in surface, then dotted perpendicularly from the top frame tube. The picture describes it better.
(https://i.imgur.com/G3Mv5Ok.jpg)
Once I have made the curved pieces, I will attach them to the top and bottom of the triangular block, and cut the styrofoam with the wire heat cutter.
Of course while all of this fabricating is going on, I have to be cognizant that I need to stuff a big battery and electrical components inside the space allotted. The battery will be the biggest and heaviest part. A couple of mock ups for ideas.
(https://i.imgur.com/52azxor.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YdxrhMA.jpg)
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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Roughed out the plug. This is rough sanded Styrofoam.
(https://i.imgur.com/OtiKHgV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/d9hVTY5.jpg)
When I have finished getting it smooth, I will cut out parallel with the inside of the frame tube.
(https://i.imgur.com/zbNt7d9.jpg)
I've spared posting photos of all the screw ups. For each step in the process, I have practice pieces that I try first. Some failures include using interior primer paint (it cracks). Currently I have a piece with polyurethane and primer mixed 50-50, and a piece with Polyfilla. I'll assess which works best before trying to create a smooth finish.
Peace and Polyurethane, Dennis
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A while ago the brethren joined me for a shop night. One of the tasks was bending some 3/4 tubing 90 degrees for my fender mounts. Since then, I've pretty much finished the job.
I glued foam to the tires so the fenders would be an equal distance from them.
(https://i.imgur.com/3qUJORZ.jpg)
I used ratchet straps and squeezed the fenders down on the foam with the flat steel brackets squeezed in between. This held the brackets while I fabricated the rest of the pieces, and welded them in place.
(https://i.imgur.com/hW4Bqhx.jpg)
Made two plates to be attached to axel U bolts.
(https://i.imgur.com/PdHSfIc.jpg)
Used a cardboard grid to make a template for cutting the curved tubes.
(https://i.imgur.com/YiPFhid.jpg)
Made this jig to cut all of the tubes the same.
(https://i.imgur.com/1Xg5cwP.jpg)
This jig was to help me get all of the angle cuts right. For these cuts I lined everything up with the line on the floor which helped ensure a straight cut.
(https://i.imgur.com/vPovGfB.jpg)
All four tubes reading for welding
(https://i.imgur.com/mZvWIgv.jpg)
Pretty much finished. I need to trim off and round the flat part just below where the tubes are welded.
This was a big job, but I am happy with the results.
(https://i.imgur.com/fiA2G3l.jpg)
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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I went through my stash of motorcycle seats for inspiration of what would look good. The stock Harley seat that came with my pile of stolen sportster parts was closest, but not useable because the front curved up to connect to the gas tank. It just looked funny. I chopped the front off and decided to make something similar.
(https://i.imgur.com/5i59V4o.jpg)
Made a base out of cardboard and curve out of styrofoam,
(https://i.imgur.com/kjm958J.jpg)
Everything covered with plastic film. The fiberglass resin melts styrofoam.
(https://i.imgur.com/QeSYlFf.jpg)
Alternate layers of mat and fabric.
(https://i.imgur.com/edNWtFN.jpg)
Despite the plastic film, the fumes melted some of the styrofoam. This styrofoam was super light weight; left overs from a shipping crate.
(https://i.imgur.com/MDyrwNu.jpg)
Cut out with my bandsaw.
(https://i.imgur.com/aJiOYkD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/80YQcs5.jpg)
I want to have a mock up of the foam for when I take it to an upholsterer. I cut this the same way I cut my side panel plug; I glue particle board on the sides of a block and then cut with my hot wire cutter.
(https://i.imgur.com/SBhR779.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sCFrlMd.jpg)
It looked too thick so I used masking tape (instead of particle board which I can't glue to curves) and slimmed it down.
(https://i.imgur.com/g95k00V.jpg)
Sanded and shaped.
(https://i.imgur.com/kBYfT3g.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4YWeicp.jpg)
Peace & Upholstery, Dennis
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I took my Styrofoam plug for my side covers to be professionally scanned for 3D printing. Precision Guide Machinery and Repair Ltd. has very sophisticated scanning equipment which they use when making very precise equipment.
(https://i.imgur.com/MXyc6kR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1lt31MG.jpg)
The scanning is so detailed that all of my blemishes are copied. Michael at Precision Guide did computer magic and smoothed out most.
(https://i.imgur.com/rPDsOXd.jpg)
The Styrofoam plug was solid. Michael made it a shell. This is approximately 3.5mm thick.
(https://i.imgur.com/DdW2eXh.png)
The best part is I only had to create one plug (left side). The software easily converted it for the right side.
(https://i.imgur.com/SaERcPe.png)
Precision Guide diesn't have a 3D printer for something this size. I will be working with another fellow for that.
Peace & polynomials, Dennis
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Any progress is progress.
John-Eric is doing my 3D printing. He has made one test sample.
(https://i.imgur.com/pZfC3LG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tRxNfNF.jpg)
I am discussing with Dave Litke the type of plastic that is compatible with automotive paint, as I intend to have him paint the trike when the time comes.
Meanwhile I have done some work on my battery basket.
(https://i.imgur.com/bjNI25V.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oI1fRiu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HnsjSVs.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/V6rFQb0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NGNj8lC.jpg)
Peace & Grease, Dennis
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I fitted the test sample. I am happy with the fit, so I asked John-Eric to make both sides with the higher quality plastic and printing settings.
(https://i.imgur.com/rmD4yNK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/exjKsjK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5qFf7GZ.jpg)
Peace & Plastic, Dennis
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Looking good Dennis.